Gluhwein and Pfaffenglück

When people talk about Christmas in Germany, one of the first things that usually comes up is the Christmas markets (Weihnachtsmärkte) that are present in almost every city. In Hamburg the market started just before Thanksgiving and goes until 23 December. Actually, it's several markets - there are three or four downtown, including the biggest by the Rathaus. Many of the neighborhoods in the city have their own, including Eimsbüttel (our neighborhood) and St. Pauli. The one in St. Pauli is right on the Reeperbahn, and the decorations on the booths reflect that.


I've visited a few of the markets by now and they're insanely crowded. There are booths selling all kinds of German Christmas-y things (and some not-so-Christmas-y or German, like the Stetson hat booth), but mostly the markets are all about the food. The rows of stalls are packed - but because there's a Gluhwein stand, or a place selling sausages or Fischbrötchen and people are queueing up for the food, or standing around eating and drinking. The one by the Rathaus is the most crowded - even going there in the middle of a weekday there are crowds that make it difficult to not spill your Gluhwein.

But - the Gluhwein is worth it! It's pulled from what looks like beer taps so it gets a bit foamy on top and is very warming. My favorite food so far is only at the Rathaus market - Pfaffenglück! It's basically an herbed yeast dough rolled out and topped with cheese, a sour cream sauce and bacon (or mushrooms), then baked. When they come out of the oven they add a bit more sour cream and chives, and that's it.

They're incredibly good - I have yet to go to the market and get away without eating one. Without fail it's the stand with the longest line, even longer than for Gluhwein, and that's saying something.

The best - or worst - part of the Rathaus market is the giant sleigh that goes across the market on a zip line every two hours, carrying a man dressed as Santa Claus who sounds disturbingly like Barry White. He climbs into the sleigh (hoisted up by a Genie), wishes all the children a merry Christmas, and then the sleigh goes across the market and then back. The second time it does this, the sleigh has sparkler "rockets" coming out the back. It's all rather alarming, made more so by the worst recording of Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer I've ever heard. I've seen it twice now and that is plenty.


What I find the nicest about the markets is that people mostly go there to stand around, drink some Gluhwein or a Lumumba (hot chocolate with a shot of rum and whipped cream), eat some snacks and just generally socialize and enjoy being out with people. It's quite festive and fun. Give me a Lumumba and I'll drink to that!


Lumumba

I have not yet figured out why this is called a Lumumba - no one I asked knew, and Wikipedia was no help. But it's tasty, and I'm generally not a fan of rum.

6 oz. hot chocolate
1 shot rum
whipped cream

Put the hot chocolate in a mug and add the rum. Stir to combine. Pile high with whipped cream and enjoy!

Serves: 1