leftover epiphany

We are hunkered down here in Hamburg, in for the long haul of cold, wet and gloomy that will be life in this part of Europe until April. I find this time of year challenging - sunrise at 8:20 makes it hard to get out of bed with any kind of enthusiasm, all the more so when you can't really tell the sun is up because the clouds are so thick. On the other hand, we get the occasional bursts of sun that are pretty spectacular, and I get to feel virtuous for getting up before sunrise, which never happens in the summer.


I find myself craving spicy food at this time of year, needing something with a good kick to keep me from complaining. Mapo Tofu has become one of our standard winter meals, hot and tingly and seriously good. Good Asian food of any type is hard to come by here, as is anything remotely spicy, so we mostly make our own when we need a fix. We actually make this quite often during the week - most of the ingredients are in the pantry, so once we have them we're good to go for a while. Plus, the leftovers make an excellent lunch, especially to thaw freezing toes and raw fingers.


We don't have a microwave at home, and I was surprised to discover that I am quite content not having one. Our apartment is small - the kitchen isn't tiny but counter space is still precious. The only time I ever missed it was when reheating leftovers - until I discovered that I can do it in my regular oven! (Anyone with cooking experience in the pre-microwave era, feel free to roll your eyes.) A little over a year ago I acquired a small porcelain covered casserole from a flea market for 5 euros, thinking that it would be good for making one or two-serving meals when Zoli is away.



It turns out what I mostly use it for is reheating leftovers. (Incidentally, it is also great for roasting beets.) The first time I made leftovers in the oven I was totally impressed with myself - until it occurred to me that it would probably also work with a foil-covered regular bowl, not just my little dish, which it does. Then I just felt rather silly for taking so long to figure it out.


Regardless of how the leftovers are reheated, the Mapo Tofu is delicious and warming and the polar opposite of 2 degrees and drizzly. Right now, that is pretty darn good.



Mapo Tofu
adapted from Land of Plenty by Fuchsia Dunlop
Serves 2-3 as a main dish and doubles easily


1 block soft tofu, drained and cubed
3 tablespoons peanut or other vegetable oil
6 oz (170g) ground pork
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced at an angle (save a handful for garnish) - one small leek also works
1-3 Tbsp Sambal Oelek (what we use) or chili bean paste
1 Tbsp fermented black beans, rinsed and chopped
1/2 Tbsp Sichuan peppercorns
1 c chicken stock
2 tsp white sugar
2 tsp soy sauce (more to taste)
4 Tbsp cornstarch mixed with 6 Tbsp water

Toast the Sichuan peppercorns in a dry pan (I normally use the same pot I will use to cook the Mapo Tofu) until they are smoking slightly but not burnt. Transfer to a spice grinder or mortar and grind until relatively finely ground.

Heat the oil in a heavy pot over medium-high heat. (I use my big enameled cast iron dutch oven - a wok would definitely also work.) Add the pork and stir-fry until it is crispy and a little brown but isn't dry. Reduce the heat to medium, add the garlic and scallions, and cook until fragrant (a minute or two, careful not to burn the garlic). Add the Sambal Oelek, black beans, and 1-2 tsp of the ground Sichuan pepper. Cook for another minute, stirring to combine everything.

Pour in the stock, making sure to scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Add the sugar and soy sauce, mix well, and let the mixture come to a gentle simmer if it isn't already there. Taste for seasoning and for spice - if you want it a bit hotter add more sambal oelek, more tingly add more Sichuan pepper. (I normally start with two Tbsp sambal oelek and sometimes add a third, but we like it quite spicy.) Add the tofu and incorporate it into the sauce by gently pushing it down with the back of a ladle or large spoon. Try not to break up the tofu. Simmer for about 5 minutes, letting the tofu warm through and absorb the sauce. Add about half the cornstarch mixture and mix well but gently, letting the sauce thicken. (You want it to just coat the back of a spoon.) If it needs to be thicker, add more of the cornstarch mix. Serve hot, over steamed rice and garnished with scallions and the remaining ground Sichuan peppercorns.